Wear Life Expectancy

Determining how long a shirt should last is difficult due to the variances in frequency of wear. However, industry experience shows that shirts have an average two-year wear life expectancy. The number of launderings is a better measuring method. The average shirt should have a wear life of 35 to 50 washings. This will fluctuate depending on the amount of abrasion and strain placed on the shirt during wear, the fibre content, the type of fabric, and the laundering procedure.

Shrinkage

Most dress shirts are difficult to shrink. The manufacturer has already allowed for the normal two percent and progressive shrinkage requirements. This shrinkage is usually not enough to cause a complaint. Shrinkage beyond this is usually due to poorly stabilized materials by the manufacturer.

Shrinkage complaints can easily be resolved by measuring the collar and sleeve length. Measure the collar from the end of the buttonhole to the centre of the button. Measure the sleeve length in a straight line from the centre of the back of the collar at the seam to the end of the cuff. If these measurements correspond to the shirt size, it has not shrunk.

Holes and Tears in Oxfords

Tiny holes can appear at random throughout an oxford shirt due to the weaving process. These should not be confused with damage from bleach. Oxford consists of two thin warp yarns to every soft, thicker yarn in the filling direction. The unbalanced construction causes the thin yarn to break, leaving tiny holes. Manufacturers could use a higher twist in the yarn to retard the development of holes, but eventually any oxford weave will develop tiny pinholes.

In addition, tears in oxfords occur in the direction of the softly twisted, thicker yarns. All the yarns in an oxford receive the same care process, but the constant abrasion in wear causes the think yarns to weaken and tear.

Buttons

Buttons may crack during pressing even though the press padding is in excellent condition and the procedures used are correct. There may be an inherent problem in the button or the way the button was applied to the shirt. The majority of shirt buttons are made from a polyester resin. The strength of the button depends on the amount of polyester in the resin; some imported buttons contain less polyester.

Off-quality buttons are graded because they do not meet the requirements in one or all of the following criteria: colour, visual inclusions, chips or cracks, and uniformity of size. Some manufactures use less expensive, off-quality buttons to save money but this sometimes results in higher than average breakage.

Perspiration and Antiperspirant Damage

Perspiration stains over a prolonged period will eventually weaken the fabric, allowing the area to be damaged during washing. Aluminium chlorides found in antiperspirants will also weaken the fibres under the arm. Controlled use of antiperspirants and frequent washings immediately after wear may minimize this type of damage.

Fugitive Dyes

The Care Label Rule states that the colour in a garment must withstand the recommended care procedure. If the dyes in a multicoloured shirt are not colourfast to water, bleeding will occur. The dye will migrate into adjacent areas during the washing process. This migration of the dye into the surrounding areas is not acceptable.

Some dyes dissolve in water and are partially removed during laundering. After the first laundering, the lightening of colour may be apparent, or it may be progressive and only noticeable after several care procedures.

Interfacing Defects

Puckering and excess fabric in the shirt collar after laundering is caused by shrinkage of the interfacing (within the collar). If the shirt is laundered, and the interfacing shrinks excessively, it will cause the puckering of the outer fabric. The manufacturer must select an interfacing which is compatible with the shirt fabric in order to prevent this problem.

Collars and cuffs will have a mottled grey or shiny look in specific areas when excess adhesive is used to fuse the collar or cuff fabric and the interfacing. This excess adhesive softens in pressing and penetrates the outer fabric of the collar and cuffs. This can be prevented by the correct selection of an adhesive by the manufacturer, which is compatible to commercial laundering.

Yellowing occurs because some interfacings on shirts react adversely with chlorine. Laundries often use other oxygen-type bleaches, which do not react with chlorine retentive resins. If chlorine bleach is used on this type of fabric, yellowing could occur.

Stains and Spills

Stains from medicines, strong acids, the acid residue of foodstuffs and beverages, or liquid chlorine bleach, can easily damage a shirt. Spillage of a strong household product causes localized fabric weakness or colour loss in the area of contact with the fabric. This type of damage may not show up until after washing.

Help with Spots

If spots and stains are promptly and properly treated there is a greater success in stain removal. They can be treated without damage to the garment. Dry cleaners have special equipment and stain removers to remove most of the toughest stains.

It is recommended that you consult your dry cleaner regarding any special stains that require proper attention.